Good Living: A Tribute to Gourmet

I subscribe to a variety of magazines. I think this trait was inherited from my mother who subscribed to a good number; my father received several including Arizona Highways and Field and Stream.

My friend, Karen F, took Gourmet for a year in 1992(ish), has all the issues, and still cooks from them. They sit in a pile in her kitchen. In her words, “these are my cookbooks.” Having 10–12 years worth of issues, I happily encourage and admire her focus. I have yet to find a more appropriate food magazine for the home cook of special occasions. I mention several here.

Saveur is an excellent magazine in concept: authentic cuisine. Authentic, be it Irish colcannon or goat curry from Trinidad. Previous issues have included an American south church potluck, a die-hard university football tailgate party, and English Devon cream. The photography is, well, authentic. The ladies at the picnic wore church dresses with tennies, and stood to eat under the shade of a tree. Realism of course, and as exceptional as many real things are. I still can envision trays of Danish smørrebrød shown earlier this year. The breadth of knowledge between it’s covers is impressive and enormous. The writing is cogent. A piece on peanuts stands out. I recommend Saveur without reservation. It is a valuable piece.

Bon Appétit (BA) is a fine magazine and I have used recipes that have become trusted and true. I endorse these. I take BA for a year, then give it a break for a few, then try it again. I feel no allegiance to it but respect it’s fine recipe gathering ability. For whatever reason, the images and articles do not stay with me.

Everyday Food (via Martha Stewart) is a nice little size and package. Colorful and simple in word and deed. I have made several dishes and find it quick and easy. I have not made anything from this one in about 8 months. I don’t know why.

Martha Stewart (MS) continues to whet my interest in cooking. In August, I presented polenta quick bread with lemon and thyme for Carla A’s birthday. I can’t tell you the accolades heaped on this earthy loaf. I wrapped it in parchment and twine, writing its name on a sticker (which doesn’t stick to parchment and twine). A delicious tea loaf. I embrace MS food.

Gourmet continues to capture my heart. It is an acquaintance that has developed into an old friend; strangely, a contemporary. I find several recipes each issue I must try. I have just closed the book on a slightly rumpled August, at least sufficiently to file it with my other issues (though I still intend to make the mesclun salad with Banon cheese in autumn). Today I finished the raspberry crème fraîche tart with lavender honey (I used orange blossom, ending a painful search). I recommend it fully when fresh raspberries are available; I visited the DM farmer’s market yesterday. Earlier this week found me eating gingered carrot soup that has more flavors going on that one can imagine. A simple cool soup (is a cool soup always elegant?). My first effort in this issue was Richard Olney’s flat zucchini omelet. I would try anything from Richard Olney; he found this “completely attractive.”

Photography is stylistically diverse and some features are truly breathtaking. Enough so I want to tear them out and tape them to the wall. I recall a significant article on R.J. Apple’s birthday dinner in Paris at Chez L’Ami Frère. The photography was exceptional. Storytelling. August succeeds in “Into the Blue” with dusky blue tones. It is a wonder.

Good writing is the calling card of the magazine. The likes of Laurie Colwin, MFK Fisher, Samuel Chamberlain, Craig Claiborne, and others have contributed to the success.

For my money, give me Gourmet: the magazine of good living. September’s cover is too fine to describe. It must be experienced. I smell baking apples, woodsy mushrooms, and fresh spinach.

Bon Appétit and Gourmet recipes are online .