Thursday, July 20, 2006

Restaurant Review—Waters Fine Catering

***

Any cook will tell you the key to culinary success is quality of ingredients. The proprietors of Waters carefully heed this practice. Known as peerless caterers, there are two Waters outposts to vend their goods. One is the Museum of Art (Waters Café @ SDMA) and the other is on Morena Boulevard, Waters Fine Foods To Go.

I have patronized Waters Fine Foods To Go no fewer than seven times. (If you’ve read Ruth Reichl’s books, you know as NY Times restaurant critic she visited each establishment several times at least before the review). Take last night for instance. I started a printmaking class at 6 p.m. in Point Loma. From UCSD, I drove to Costco where I filled my tank and bought blueberries, contact lens solution, and raw almonds. My course had been premeditated for days. I continued south on Morena and closed in on Waters before they turned the key for the night. I hopped from curb to door, ordered a roast beef sandwich from the new girl (more often than not, the front counter help is new), vacillating between this and my usual, chicken salad. While waiting, I ogled the showcase of prepared foods. The smooth icing of carrot cake called but I didn’t answer. I admired the ancini de pepe salad and queried. A small carton was readied for me. The sandwich arrived from the back kitchen and I paid, reluctantly edging out of the shop and on my course. I ate half the sandwich en route to my class and half the salad. Half the sandwich fit in my right hand. I am continually impressed with the breads used at Waters. Soft, chewy, and a taste of water. Supreme. Unlike some places, I never worry about the meat here. It is all edible. One can eat in luxury. Having arrived, I left the remainder of my purchase on the passenger seat, waiting my return.

Under "Hummus" on page 265 of The Dean & DeLuca Cookbook, we read "In this dish, the best texture of all is obtained by passing the cooked chickpeas through a food mill; other devices—like a food processor—are acceptable, but inferior." Life is filled with the acceptable, but inferior, and most of the time we eat it. A visit to Waters will make you think again, a rebirth of sorts. And, next time you are even close, you will say, “Oh good! I can go to Waters.”

Menu Items in Detail:

Natural Meyer Piedmontese Roast Beef, Horseradish, Aïoli, Lettuce, Vine Ripened Tomatoes, Crisp Onions on Baguette
Grilled Petaluma Natural Chicken Salad, Tarragon, Lettuce, Artichoke on Baguette
Petite Pasta, Laura Chenel's Goat Cheese, Olives, Basil, Oven-dried Tomatoes

1105 / 1115 West Morena Boulevard
San Diego, CA 92110
Tel: (619) 276.8803

Directions:
Coming from I-5, take the Sea World Drive/Tecolote Road exit, go east to Morena Blvd. and turn right. At the 1st light—Buenos Street, go right. Make your first left into an alleyway; it will be behind "Subway Sandwiches"; follow the alley around in a U-shape. You will see our yellow building on the right.

What the Stars Mean:
(None) Poor to satisfactory
* Good
** Very good
*** Excellent
**** Extraordinary

9 comments:

Anonymous said...

This sounds like a fine restaurant. I like sandwiches, and enjoy roast beef.

A restaurant I would love to try is the Chart House. It has many offerings which rely on quality food from the sea. Imagine, eating your favorite seafood amid classic furnishings and paintings. Quite a delicious alternative to the low-quality-so-masked-by-strong-seasonings fare offered by other restaurants.

Anonymous said...

Sounds yummy--and gourmet! I love the part about your course being pre-meditated for days!

apple slice said...

Brian, if you come to SD in September, I will personally host your meal at the Chart House. Mother and I have been there. We ordered a delicacy from the sea. They might even have fish 'n' chips!

Mum, you would love Waters. I suggest a chicken salad sandwich for you.

Karen said...

I love me a chicken salad sandwich, but I would love the company of Apple Slice even more. I would dine with glee on Big Mac and think it a gourmet experience If I were conversing with Slice Baby at the same time!

Anonymous said...

I love South Dakota! I wonder if there is one near Mount Rushmore? Imagine eating at the Chart House in the shadow of this most famous monument....

Karen said...

lololol
Does Brian have a blog? I find his comments highly entertaining.

apple slice said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
apple slice said...

Let's just say, B should have a blog if anyone should.

Anonymous said...

Ohhh...the agony of not having bread. I wonder if they would fix me a lettuce wrap.
Brian the Brain, I'll meet you at Mount Rushmore.