Sunday, September 03, 2006

Good Living: A Tribute to Gourmet

I subscribe to a variety of magazines. I think this trait was inherited from my mother who subscribed to a good number; my father received several including Arizona Highways and Field and Stream.

My friend, Karen F, took Gourmet for a year in 1992(ish), has all the issues, and still cooks from them. They sit in a pile in her kitchen. In her words, “these are my cookbooks.” Having 10–12 years worth of issues, I happily encourage and admire her focus. I have yet to find a more appropriate food magazine for the home cook of special occasions. I mention several here.

Saveur is an excellent magazine in concept: authentic cuisine. Authentic, be it Irish colcannon or goat curry from Trinidad. Previous issues have included an American south church potluck, a die-hard university football tailgate party, and English Devon cream. The photography is, well, authentic. The ladies at the picnic wore church dresses with tennies, and stood to eat under the shade of a tree. Realism of course, and as exceptional as many real things are. I still can envision trays of Danish smørrebrød shown earlier this year. The breadth of knowledge between it’s covers is impressive and enormous. The writing is cogent. A piece on peanuts stands out. I recommend Saveur without reservation. It is a valuable piece.

Bon Appétit (BA) is a fine magazine and I have used recipes that have become trusted and true. I endorse these. I take BA for a year, then give it a break for a few, then try it again. I feel no allegiance to it but respect it’s fine recipe gathering ability. For whatever reason, the images and articles do not stay with me.

Everyday Food (via Martha Stewart) is a nice little size and package. Colorful and simple in word and deed. I have made several dishes and find it quick and easy. I have not made anything from this one in about 8 months. I don’t know why.

Martha Stewart (MS) continues to whet my interest in cooking. In August, I presented polenta quick bread with lemon and thyme for Carla A’s birthday. I can’t tell you the accolades heaped on this earthy loaf. I wrapped it in parchment and twine, writing its name on a sticker (which doesn’t stick to parchment and twine). A delicious tea loaf. I embrace MS food.

Gourmet continues to capture my heart. It is an acquaintance that has developed into an old friend; strangely, a contemporary. I find several recipes each issue I must try. I have just closed the book on a slightly rumpled August, at least sufficiently to file it with my other issues (though I still intend to make the mesclun salad with Banon cheese in autumn). Today I finished the raspberry crème fraîche tart with lavender honey (I used orange blossom, ending a painful search). I recommend it fully when fresh raspberries are available; I visited the DM farmer’s market yesterday. Earlier this week found me eating gingered carrot soup that has more flavors going on that one can imagine. A simple cool soup (is a cool soup always elegant?). My first effort in this issue was Richard Olney’s flat zucchini omelet. I would try anything from Richard Olney; he found this “completely attractive.”

Photography is stylistically diverse and some features are truly breathtaking. Enough so I want to tear them out and tape them to the wall. I recall a significant article on R.J. Apple’s birthday dinner in Paris at Chez L’Ami Frère. The photography was exceptional. Storytelling. August succeeds in “Into the Blue” with dusky blue tones. It is a wonder.

Good writing is the calling card of the magazine. The likes of Laurie Colwin, MFK Fisher, Samuel Chamberlain, Craig Claiborne, and others have contributed to the success.

For my money, give me Gourmet: the magazine of good living. September’s cover is too fine to describe. It must be experienced. I smell baking apples, woodsy mushrooms, and fresh spinach.

Bon Appétit and Gourmet recipes are online .

5 comments:

Anonymous said...

Over the past year, I’ve enjoyed watching a movie called Flipper. I’ve watched it possibly half a dozen times.

In this movie, Martha Stewart Living receives prominent mention. Porter is captaining his rather dilapidated boat. They have sent Flipper (equipped with camera which transmits images back to the ship) in search of a toxic-waste dumping ground. (Apparently, a brief exposure will not harm Flipper.) As Flipper is about his search, Porter & Crew are taking a rest on the sunny deck. He is reading Martha Stewart Living.

He observes, “Mmmm. Gee this Martha Stewart’s a clever woman. She’s made curtains here out of old fishing nets. You know, that’ll work in my place.” (A bored crew member dismisses Porter’s comments, perhaps thinking the subject pedestrian.) The magazine’s cover has three fancy-looking drinks, complete with little umbrellas.

Occasionally, I’ll see her magazine around the house. And I think back to Flipper & Company’s dangerous mission, and how he goes on to save Sandy from the tiger shark, and the harpoon-wielding toxic dumper.

Karen said...

While finishing our basement this year I tossed out my 5 year collection of Marthas. It was painful. It got Scott off my back, but I still feel the need to repent. At least the landfill has a wee bit more class now.

apple slice said...

B, I want to see Flipper. I enjoyed the TV series very much. It is basically the only draw I see to Florida. That, and Heminway in the Keys.

K, I dumped mine too in the last year. My mother wanted her closet back. Someone found a goldmine at DI. The landfill will indeed benefit. hee. hee. I dumped a variety of other mags too but kept a few despite. It is cathartic to cleanse. Luckily, the recipe guide is online. Now, that is a good thing.

Karen said...

I must admit, I actually recycled mine. It just didn't sound as clever, and now I fear looking very wasteful. Who am I kidding? I just recycle to asuage my Republican guilt.

apple slice said...

Ho ho. I didn't think anything of the non-recycled but am happy you did. I like to recycle when it's easy for me. :) I admit to feelings of small guilt when I do recyclce. I can't image converting the refuse into another form. Artisans must work in the plants. I feel like I'm asking them to perform a superhuman job. It is almost overwhelming. In fact, I was just zapped of strength thinking about it.