In Review: The Olives Table

My friend R presented me The Olives Table some years ago (2002 from the inscription). I immediately rejoiced. She was surprised and vaguely bored I had heard of it. R is often vaguely bored. Written by chef Todd English and food writer Sally Sampson, it is a repeated source of dream. In fact, I have not made much from it (just the Sweet Potato Soup), but have earmarked numerous pages, and for about the whole time I’ve had it, pined to make Green Apple Risotto with Cabbage and Bacon. The liquid is apple juice and water. This is a welcome change from most risotto. I have never made risotto, but when I do, it will be an event. This dish is an “interesting accompaniment to duck, chicken, or pork.”

Other recipes that need to be created: Carl’s Pagoda-Inspired Tomato Soup (in late summer or early fall), Roasted Cumin Carrots (roasted carrots are a staple here and this with cumin, cilantro, garlic, and feta send a whiff of pleasure), Apple Fennel Mashed Potatoes (includes rosemary, apple cider), mostly Tahini-Marinated Chicken with Honey, Yogurt, and Ginger Sauce (in Todd’s words, it is “simply luscious”), and the interesting Steamed Tagine of Halibut with Morrocan-Spiced Spaghetti Squash. More than one of these dishes boasts a yogurt sauce. This is appealing for the salt and herbs. Plain yogurt is my friend. A simple raita is heaven. If I went mad I would make the Gingersnap Risotto Pudding and serve with fresh blueberries. On a moment’s reflection, I would make this for RB if a visit were eminent. Some people love crystallized ginger.



I enjoy Todd English for his name, his dramatic hair, and his way of teaching. He is a man who often chews “on a stalk [of fennel] while [he is] working in the kitchen” because he finds the sweet anise-like flavor refreshing. We dined once at Olives in Las Vegas. I chiefly remember the flat bread with sweet (probably fig) jam and perhaps prosciutto. One day I hope to visit his Boston restaurant and work my way around an olive pit. For now, his book is inspired and highly useful to the home cook.