Monday, August 31, 2009

I Want to Write Something So Simply

I want to write something
so simply
about love
or about pain
that even
as you are reading
you feel it
and as you read
you keep feeling it
and though it be my story
it will be common,
though it be singular
it will be known to you
so that by the end
you will think—
no, you will realize—
that it was all the while
yourself arranging the words,
that it was all the time
words that you yourself,
out of your own heart
had been saying.

Mary Oliver
Evidence

Sunday, August 09, 2009

Chocolate Gobs


When you have less than a stick of butter and no brown sugar, the hunt is on for a good cookie recipe. I went first to Baking: From My Home to Yours from our national treasure, Dorie Greenspan. She came through on page 70 where very rich looking Chocolate Chunkers nestle cozily onto page 71. Calling for 3 tablespoons of butter and no brown sugar but five kinds of chocolate that incredibly and embarassingly were on hand, I made them. Toasted pecans and golden raisins broke the chocolate haze and I did not faint. However, one is enough for now. I will now decide who among my sturdy acquaintances can stomach the remainders.

I am the first person to appreciate a recipe name and probably one of the first to pause in midstep at a clunker. Dorie's name of Chocolate Chunkers is a bee in my bonnet, avoiding as I do words like chunk or nugget for any food. We know they were once favorites at Soho Charcuterie (now closed) and still served at Sarabeth's where they are called Chocolate Chubs. Another word I don't use. At Soho Charcuterie, they were named Chocolate Gobs. Finally. I can approve as we recall Wonka, everlasting gobstoppers, and England's Roald Dahl. Chocolate Frogs. Chocolate Gobs.

1/3 C all-purpose flour
1/4 C unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 t salt
1/4 t baking powder
3 T unsalted butter, cut into 3 pieces
6 oz bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 oz unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2/3 C sugar
1 t pure vanilla extract
6 oz semisweet chocoalte, chopped into chunks
6 oz premium-quality milk or white chocolate, chopped into chunks
1 1/2 C coarsely chopped nuts, preferably salted peanuts or toasted pecans
1 C moist, plump raisins (dark or golden) or finely chopped moist, plump dried apricots

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line baking sheets with parchment. Sift together the flour, cocoa, salt, and baking powder. Set a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. Add the butter, bittersweet chocolate, and unsweetened chocolate and heat, stirring occasionally, just until melted—the chocolate and butter should be smooth and shiny but not so hot that the butter separates. Remove the bowl from the heat and set it on the counter to cool.
Working with a stand mixer, preferably fitted with a paddle attachment, or with a hand mixer in a large bowl, beat the eggs and sugar together on medium-high speed for about 2 minutes, until they are pale and foamy. Beat in the vanilla extract, then scrape down the bowl. Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the melted butter and chocolate, mixing only until incorporated. With a rubber spatula, scrape down the bowl, then, on low speed, add the dry ingredients. Mix just until the dry ingredients disappear into the dough, which will be thick, smooth, and shiny. Scrape down the bowl and, using the rubber spatula, mix in the semisweet and milk (or white) chocolate chunks, nuts, and raisins—you'll have more crunchies than dough at this point. (The dough can be wrapped in plastic and kept refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
Drop the dough by generously heaping tablespoonfuls onto the baking sheets, leaving about an inch of space between the mounds of dough. Bake the cookies one sheet at a time for 10 to 12 minutes. The tops of the cookies will look a little dry but the interiors should still be soft. Remove the baking sheet and carefully, using a broad metal spatula, lift the cookies onto a cooling rack to cool to room temperature. Repeat with the remaining dough, baking only one sheet of cookies at a time and making sure to cool the baking sheets between batches. If, when the cookies are cooled, the chocolate is still gooey and you'd like it to be a bit firmer, just pop the cookies into the fridge for about 10 minutes.

Sunday, August 02, 2009

Blueberry Crumble and Chewy Chocolate


Some people are "chocolate eaters," eschewing most other desserts in a firm tone. Like saying you vacation in France and will not chance buying a ticket to Italy. I don't judge this stance. I grew up in an all chocolate family. We had such a self-proclaimed guest at the table this evening for a line of three desserts. Warm flan, blueberry crumble, and chewy chocolate cookies. Of course I played out the evening before it happened. Making sure the chocolate eater had plenty of chocolate to eat, knowing she would most likely invest only in it. Therefore, I was impressed when this guest took a second helping of the crumble. I guess I could excuse it saying blueberries are a superfood and the guest is health aware. I choose to think the taste was so pleasing, the chocolate (low-fat) cookies took second, which I kind of like. The blueberries were fresh, purchased for a song at Henry's. The crumble was plentiful and tasty, a hint of cinnamon. I baked it in my French casserole with its pleasing curves. The flan was also delicious and warm and nummy. I never make flan so it was a treat. We did not overeat. We sampled three dishes, and lived to tell.

Blueberry-Blackberry Crumble
Adapted from A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes by Davis Tanis

1 1/2 C all-purpose flour
1 C packed brown sugar
1/2 t cinnamon
8 T (1 stick) cold sweet butter, in small pieces
3 pints blueberries (I used only blueberries)
3 pints blackberries
1/2 C granulated sugar

Preheat oven to 350 F. To make the topping, combine the flour, brown sugar, and cinnamon in a bowl. Add the butter and work it in with your fingertips until you have a crumbly mixture. In another bowl, toss the blueberries and blackberries with the granulated sugar. Pile the sugared fruit into a large gratin dish or two pie plates. Mound the topping over the fruit. Bake for an hour, or until the topping is nicely browned. Cool for 15 minutes before serving, or serve at room temperature.

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Orange Fire and Coconut


In case you are wondering I have spent the last few weeks doused in Feu d'Orange from L'Occitane and Exotic Coconut body cream. It seems I can't get enough of the scent of coconut. Spending some time in the hot air balloon of St. George, for once I didn't dry out totally what with the layers of body cream. We celebrated the 4th of July, mother's birthday, J's birthday, and summer days. Our menus included four kinds of cookies (seven layer bars from Greyston Bakery Cookbook, Katherine Hepburn's brownies, strawberry-shortcake cookies, salted peanut butter toffee cookies from Pure Dessert), coleslaw, green chile pork posole, guacamole, fresh bread, macadamia fudge torte, and carrot cake with fresh orange rind frosting from Sweet Melissa, in addition to Brian's famous Benihana rice which I ate for breakfast at least two mornings.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Chocolate in Doses


I make it a habit of copying pages from a magazine I like, rather than tearing out the pages. Certainly not everyone does this. If it's recipes I'm after, often they are online. Like this one. I tore out the page anyway. They are really chocolatey, and predominantly chocolate chips. I love the walnuts since I often need a foil for my chocolate. The first day, they were too rich for me; the second day I could take it. Then, they were gone thanks to a pile of gift bags. I must caution you against being a reducer, reuser, recycler with your parchment for this. Crumbs stick to the parchment producing a tiny burn on the bottom of the next batches. Regardless . . . .

Monday, June 15, 2009

Pretty Books in the Sun


I thought I would be very bold and recommend some books for summer. They are books both for the armchair reader and the traveler.

Italian Villas and Their Gardens by Edith Wharton with pictures by Maxfield Parrish
West with the Night by Beryl Markham
Brideshead Revisited by Evelyn Waugh
The Sun Also Rises by Ernest Hemingway
Anything by E.M. Forster, E.B. White, and James Thurber

What reading do you recommend?

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Footfall: Retracing My Steps



This morning I donned old flannel shorts, a half clean tee, and walking sandals. Taking my journal and a camera, I went down to the beach.



My camera is back after leaving it for dead the second time this year. At a cooking club evening on Cinco de Mayo. Theme: you guess. Martita quickly told me to make chilequilas which she demonstrated in her home. I did make them. Martha's are better, but is that news? I am the type of person who walks in the house with sand on her feet.



The hostess of the cooking club made cupcakes . . . her claim. I met her for the first time that evening in an overwhelming, amazing scene. So many dishes, most people I didn't know, and cupcakes by the name of Vera Cruz. Described by the creator as a sweet corn and cilantro cupcake with a hot pepper mousse and an avocado buttercream, garnished with a lime wedge and red salt crystals. For the numerous tastes and multiple ingredients, it worked. Each part stood alone. I enjoyed squeezing a lime wedge over the whole.

Another highlight of the evening was a warm casserole of flan put forth by a nice girl who had never eaten or made flan. It was delicious warm. I think I will always eat it thusly in future. Because we were cautioned not to bring dessert, imagine 20 savory dishes. A standout being cheese-topped guacamole. The title sounds gross and un-American to me too. I need to tell you it was a warm bath and a blanket by the fire is contentment. And I ate it lukewarm. The cook used real queso oaxaca which I would put forth as a must if you're attempting this. My friend G and I will probably not attend the cooking club again as it was so much to take in. It was a one-in-a-grand-while experience but simplicity is a good middle name.

Thursday, June 04, 2009

Steamy Potatoes: A Departure

We held our picnic at Fletcher Cove, the only child in attendence being Baby A. Everyone brought their own "sandwich" and we all brought something to share. K had slipped her creation into a brown wax sandwich bag. Nicely crinkled, folded over at the top. I love waxed bags. Someday I'll get some and store candies and cookies and sandwiches in them. We also enjoyed a fine cheese thanks to a gift from another friend K. Caña de Cabra. It is a Spanish goat cheese, in a sliced round. The rind was a tree in shadow. A slice of bûche de Noël from the middle of the log, a grainy gelatin print. M made pesto and brought bread for dipping. I tried a new potato salad recipe in the vein of the picnic. After reading Diary of a French Herb Garden, I have had bay leaves on the mind. This salad smells like bay, rosemary, vinegar. I used a mediocre balsamic. If you have the sherry vinegar, I would suggest this first.

Potato Salad with Rosemary and Capers
Salade de Pommes de Terre aux Câpres et au Romarin
Serves 8

From The Provence Cookbook by Patricia Wells

2 lbs small yellow-fleshed potatoes, scrubbed but not peeled
1 fresh or dry bay leaf
1 t coarse sea salt
1 t extra-virgin olive oil

The Dressing
4 T extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, peeled, halved lengthwise, and very thinly sliced
Fine sea salt
2 T best-quality sherry vinegar (or substitute balsamic vinegar)
2 T capers in vinegar, drained
3 T finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves

Place the potatoes in a large pot. Add the bay leaf, sea salt, oil, and several tablespoons of cold water. Cover and cook over the lowest possible heat, turning from time to time, until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork and browned in patches, about 25 minutes.

While the potatoes are cooking, prepare the dressing: In a small saucepan, combine 1 T of the olive oil, the onion, and a pinch of salt, and sweat—cook, covered, over low heat until soft but not browned—for about 3 minutes. Transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add the remaining olive oil, the vinegar, capers, and 2 T of the rosemary. Toss to blend.

Once the potatoes are cooked, drain them. As soon as they are cool enough to handle (ha . . . love this line), peel them and cut into thin slices, tossing each slice directly into the warm dressing. Toss to thoroughly coat the potatoes with the dressing. Add the remaining tablespoon of rosemary and toss again. Taste for seasoning. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Sunday, May 31, 2009

Where Was the Cake?

My friend K was in town this week and she is very good at cakes. In fact, I like to cook for her. I only got the chance once and it was unexpected she was eating with us since she was conducting a month-long juice-milk diet. That's right. Fresh veg juice and whole raw milk. All you can drink. But nothing to eat. Had I known she had stopped her regime the night before our dinner, I would have made Burnt Almond Torte from Greyston Bakery Cookbook. It is a recipe I have been itching to create. As it was, we enjoyed fish, fruit, and fennel salad and griddled goat cheese with spicy olives. I am a big fan of toasts. The dessert was not exciting but I am just now remembering I have Fleur de Sel Caramel Haagen-Dazs in the freezer. I had completely forgotten. Pardon me for leaving now, I am so busy . . . .

Thursday, May 21, 2009

A Tide Turned


Thanks to a bittersweet chocolate-walnut meringue kiss, I have officially expanded my repertoire. I was a fast milk chocolate gal. Dark chocolate make me swoon (in a bad way), sometimes resulting in headache, or wooziness. It was so rich. Milk chocolate was food, not dessert. I clommed onto the Green & Black's Milk Chocolate bar and kept watch for its sale times at Henry's. I have a bar of it sitting in my fruit basket. To make the meringues, I bought the 70 percent Dark Chocolate. One chops it small for the meringues and then sprinkles more walnuts and chocolate over to serve. I started eating the small chocolate detritus after the meringues were gone. Now, I can eat it in moderation; it is lovely, fruity, a friendly dark.

I also took their online personality test and they tell me I am 70 percent dark: You are a solid individual who is well loved. You may be quite rich but you’re always in balance and never bitter. You are devoted to others and like to satisfy their needs whether it’s friends, a significant other or a favorite pet. Loyal, intuitive and caring, you always enrich the world around you. Your mantra: "Fore!"

My match is Espresso with whom I could conquer the world.

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Cookie Sunday

One of the best humans, my friend S, has a birthday today. She makes a new cookie each Sunday for her clan. She is one who celebrates the joy of cooking. Haha. Her small daughter has a strand of real pearls. Her son has brightened us all his years. Her husband is impressive and good. Her extended family feels like my extended family. I could go on. I told a common relative recently, "who doesn't love s?" She is everyone's ideal.

I made this recipe today and thought I'd post it here since it is cookie Sunday in some homes.

Chocolate Chip Cookies with Toasted Almonds
from The Sweet Melissa Baking Book
Makes 24 cookies

1/2 C whole natural almonds, toasted
10 T unsalted butter, softened
1/2 C granulated sugar
1/2 C firmly packed light brown sugar
1/2 t pure vanilla extract
1 large egg
1 2/3 C all-purpose flour
3/4 t baking soda
1/4 t salt
8 ounces best-quality semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped into 1/4- to 1/2-inch chunks

Position a rack in the center of your oven. Preheat the oven to 350F. Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper.
1. Roughly chop the almonds into large pieces.
2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter, granulated sugar, brown sugar, and vanilla until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the egg and beat for another minute.
3. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, and salt.
4. With the mixer on low speed, add the flour mixture in three batches, mixing until no flour is visible after each addition. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.
5. Remove the bowl from the mixer. Stir in the almonds and chocolate. Refrigerate the dough until firm, about 1 hour. (If you're really impatient or hungry, spread out the dough on a tray or cookie sheet, lay a sheet of plastic wrap flush against the surface of the dough, and freeze so it chills up fast.)
6. Once the dough is chilled, turn it out onto a clean work surface and divide it in half. Roll each half into a log about 12 inches long. Refrigerate the logs for at least 30 minutes before slicing. (At this point, you can wrap the logs tightly in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil and freeze for up to 1 month.)
7. Cut the logs into 1-inch slices, and place them about 1 1/2 inches apart on each cookie sheet. Bake for 13 to 14 minutes, or until the centers no longer have a glossy look of raw dough. They should be chewy, so do not overbake.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. For longer storage, refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 5 days, or freeze for up to 3 weeks. Do not uncover before defrosting.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Summer Reading in the Treehouse

This summer when I move to an island to live in a treehouse with shuttered paneless windows and door and a plentiful garden below and the sound of water, I will take two books to read for pleasure. The first is Villette by Charlotte Bronte at 656 pages. I am not acquainted with a soul who has read Villette but according to amazon, some have. It is especially delicious since I know nothing about it.

The second tome will be Middlemarch by George Eliot at 912 pages. I will probably read Villette first, and this second. I know I will enjoy the Eliot. It is some people's favorite book, ever.

I am currently in possession of two lent books from friends: Quentins by Maeve Binchy (who doesn't love to say her name) and Gertrude and Claudius by John Updike. My two library books are An Italian Education by Tim Parks (started last night) and Sing Them Home by Stephanie Kallos (may not get to by the time it's due and it's on hold so I can't renew). It was 90ish at the coast yesterday which is probably why I am making a summer reading list. What's on yours?

Sunday, April 19, 2009

One Spice, Two Spice


This pattern is called Spice Cake. I worked on it at Christmas time and it was machine quilted during the early months of the year. It is twin size so it will remain folded for the time being. Just a few weeks ago, I visited my family and regained the quilt, finishing the binding the final night of my visit with my mother on one side, me on the other with legs sweating, Brian sitting in a chair, all watching The Boy in Striped Pajamas.

I can't comment thoroughly on the movie since my head was bent in concentration, but Patti did not embrace the ending. Brian had left early and missed the ending. I was fine with the ending, or as fine as one should be.

For snack at a presidency meeting today, I brought green beans, carrots, and celery to serve with this dip. I embraced making it because I didn't need to buy fresh herbs. I did grind the cardamom in my mortar and pestle. It could have been much finer. I have yet to reach my potential with the mortar and pestle.

Adapted from How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman.

White Bean Dip
Makes at least 8 servings

Combine 2 cups drained white beans with 1/4 C olive oil, 1 small clove garlic, peeled, salt, pepper, 2 t ground cumin, 1/2 t ground cinnamon, 1/2 t ground cardamom, and 1/2 t ground or peeled and minced fresh ginger in the container of a food processor and whirl; add water as needed to make a smooth puree (I don't know how I missed this last step; my puree was muddy and earthy). Taste and add more garlic, salt, or cumin as needed. Serve, drizzled with a little olive oil and sprinkled with a bit of cumin.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Milk and Eggs


I spent Easter with Jon and Judy. It was terrific—relaxed, festive, meaningful, and religious. I turned pages for Judy as she accompanied the choir. We were dressed in coral and white, a surprise to both. I sat at the low end of the piano, a few inches from the singers. I told them how good they sounded. There is something special about sitting so close to a choir that you really are able to hear individual voices. I came home with Easter treats, three colored hard-boiled eggs, an Easter lily, and a flowered bud vase. Not to mention how lovely a gift I took away of the time together. They are like no other people in so many ways. Open doors and open arms. We ate lamb with mint jelly, mashed potatoes, green beans, rolls (which Jon took credit for baking at Costco), and angel pie. I stopped short when she brought out the Lenox Peeps salt and pepper shaker set. In the kitchen, Judy finally let me help a little. We both unloaded the dishwasher and I took out a metal baking cup measure. It is ancient. She insisted I drink milk from it as metal makes the milk really cold. I did.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Brownies and Blondies

I have previously published my preferred brownie recipe. In fact, I did not like brownies before trying it. I grew up on boxed brownies and did not enjoy the overly sweet chemical taste, nor the abnormal top shine. I see these sad factors with clarity now that I have tried several brownie recipes outside the box, and have not met one that is not a welcome visitor.

Last weekend at home, we tried this one. I had imported a modest Zip-loc of Maldon in hopes we would have hungry mouths to feed. They lived up to the description, fudgey and salty.

My all-time favorite brownie is long on yum and short on flour. In fact, those who know say the less flour the better in a brownie. I do put in the nuts. I love nuts. I can't think of what a nut doesn't improve. My own mother doesn't eat sweets unless they are "chocolate and nuts." I have a more expanded palette and embrace anything "that is good." I once served these to someone who told me she didn't like brownies. I said, me neither. And, we both ate at least two. She has probably not said that since.

My conversation this morning touched on blondies which we all agreed were not brownies. I called them cookie bars. I love bars but do not liken them to brownies.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

The Round Table

Though the dangers of making a cake for oneself are manifold, the pros definitely outweighed the cons. So I did. Enter a Key lime and coconut one-layer, warm. The icing is just as I like it: a little liquid with powdered sugar. A glaze. There is something infinitely cunning about a one-layer cake because to me it is a personal dessert that is made for one sitting. Like a tea, or a morning visit. I would call the two layer classic, and the one layer homemade for you fun giggle oh here's your cloth napkin. I am still nibbling on my one-layer with a Red Mango spoon and will soon divide it in parts to parcel out to the unsuspecting. I prefaced the fresh cake with carne asada tacos. This surprised even me as I could easily be vegetarian. The rub is spiced and the finale in a cast iron skillet is nicely charred. I used 2 percent Fage yogurt and will now endorse that as well. And, drizzling lime juice from the cake was fortuitous. The warmed tortillas are steam and humidity. It was a well-rounded meal.

Monday, March 09, 2009

Happy Trails

At The Book Cellar last Thursday, I found a small cookbook that charmed with its text layout and illustrations. It is the Ford Treasury of Favorite Recipes from Famous Eating Places published in 1950 by Simon and Schuster. The book cover is a fold-out map of the U.S. Printed on the lower book jacket leaf is the price: $1.50. I paid the same price in 2009.

Ford and Lincoln-Mercury published favorite recipes from taverns and restaurants to induce a road trip in a slick new auto. This compilation is divided geographically: Northeast, Southeast, North Central, South Central, West.

Clearly, this is an era that celebrates Hawaii's unionization. And, who wouldn't want Hawaii? Pineapple and coconut abound in the receipts. Pimentos, soya sauce, nut meats, and cream. My friend G and I were particularly enthralled with Fanny's Salad Dressing with chutney, tarragon vinegar, ground pecans, orange juice, celery, fresh tomatoes, and more. For this, there are no quantities because you see even now, the dressing is available mail order. Fanny refused offers of up to $10,000 for her recipes. In Evanston, Illinois, "Fanny's" however seems to be closed. We plan to order two jars of the sauce.

Equally thought-provoking is French-fried Deviled Eggs at Emily Shaw's in Poundridge, NY. Chocolate Yeast Cake from Edgerton's Dutch Manor in Chattanooga, TN. Neither of us were game for Banana Meat Rolls from The Gold Eagle in Beaufort, South Carolina. Served with cream sauce and chopped parsley. Brian would welcome Viennese Apple Strudel from Holiday House in St. Joseph, Michigan. G thinks we should make the Pear Bel-Air, a creamy fruity thing. Chicken Pago-Pago, Maine Blueberry Griddle Cakes, Bunuelos, Hamburger de Luxe, Baked Puget Sound King Salmon, Cumberland Sauce, and Angel Pie.

Sunday, March 08, 2009

For the Time Being

1. This afternoon is sunny but not as warm as it should be for looks like this.
2. I love the sweater I got at Gap Outlet for $4.99.
3. There is a pot of tofu chili bubbling on the stove.
4. I ate a huge lunch.
5. I am down a camera as I left mine in Fobs' stroller at Disneyland. Until we meet again.
6. The Ella Fitzgerald CD is over.
7. The last tray of these cookies look like chocolate since I missed the timer.
8. I am in the mood to wear a bathing suit.
9. The Vista strawberries I bought yesterday did not disappoint.
10. The makings of an India-inspired necklace have been sitting on my desk/table for about a week.

Sunday, February 08, 2009

Berries, without Chocolate


Birthday season abounds. A and I took our friend K for a Mexican lunch on rainy Saturday. We walked in and out during stops in the drops. We ate to the occasional downpour and drips in a covered outdoor patio. The food was quite tremendous. If people have lived in Mexico or South America, they come here. We planned to return to my place for dessert. I consulted A and she wisely suggested we go with the lighter dessert choice. This being strawberry shortcake instead of cannoli cheesecake. Short and cheese are faves of our friend K. Two weeks prior Henry's offered local sweet berries which shocked the pants off me. In January? Lucky for K and lucky for all. Baking instructor was depression-era survivor Mildred Armstrong Kalish. Adapted from Little Heathens, page 230.

Scout's Old-Fashioned Strawberry Shortcake
First, pick, wash, and hull two quarts of dead-ripe strawberries. Sprinkle half a cup of sugar over the berries and set them aside while you make the dough. In a bowl place two cups of flour, two tablespoons of sugar, one teaspoon of salt, and one tablespoon of baking powder. Cut in half a cup of white lard, butter, or Crisco. Use that gadget that looks a bit like a stirrup made of wires; it was designed for cutting shortening into flour. The mixture should look like very coarse cornmeal. Add one beaten egg to two thirds cup of whole milk. Now add this to the flour in the bowl all at once and stir with a fork until the mixture is just barely moistened. This is the crucial instruction for flaky shortcake. You will ruin the whole thing if you mix thoroughly. Using a fork, gently spread this dough into a greased eight-by-eight-inch pan. Bake for sixteen minutes in a 450 F oven until nicely browned. Remove from the oven, cool in the pan for about ten minutes and, with a fork, carefully split the shortcake horizontally. Divide the strawberries between the layer and over the top. Slosh with great gobs of not-too-stiffly-beaten whipped cream and enjoy.

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Chocolate, without Berries


When I asked J what her favorite dessert flavor is, she replied chocolate. Without raspberries. I had really pegged her as a fruit dessert person and was contemplating a sugared berry one-layer cake from Martha Stewart. I have blackberries and blueberries in the fridge. I almost bought scented strawberries today. Or, something apple. It is her birthday next week and we work together tomorrow night. I turned to a few cookbooks and decided on Suzy's Cake from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé. I had all the ingredients and used my last tablespoon of butter for it. Pierre told me not to skimp on chocolate quality. I did and used TJs Bittersweet by the pound. I'd probably do it again too. It was not too over the top chocolate but nicely decadent in a quotidien fashion. It was a pedestrian rich chocolate. We ate it in the office on sheets of foil. The sweetened whipped cream broke any chance of illness from overdoing it.



Suzy's Cake
Serves 8 to 10

8 3/4 ounces (250 grams) bittersweet chocolate, preferable Valrhona Guanaja, finely chopped
2 1/4 sticks (9 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 C sugar
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1/2 C plus 1 T all-purpose flour


Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 F. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan that is at least 2 inches high, line the bottom with parchment paper, butter the paper, and dust the inside of the pan with flour; tap out the excess and set the pan aside.
Place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over—not touching—simmering water and heat until the chocolate is melted; or melt the chocolate in a microwave oven. Set the chocolate aside to cool; it should feel only just warm to the touch when you mix it with the rest of the ingredients.
Put the butter and sugar in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium speed for about 4 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl frequently, until the butter is creamy and the sugar well blended into it. Add the eggs one at a time, beating for about 1 minute after each addition. Reduce the mixer speed to low, pour in the cooled chocolate, and mix just until it is incorporated. With the mixer still on low, add the flour and mix only until it disappears into the batter. Alternatively, you can fold in the last of the flour with a rubber spatula. You'll have a thick, smooth, satiny batter that looks like old-fashioned chocolate frosting.
Scrape the batter into the pan, smooth the top, and slide the pan into the oven. Bake for 26 to 29 minutes, or until the cake rises slightly and the top has lost its sheen. The top may crack a bit and the cake may not look entirely set in the center; when you test the cake by inserting a slender knife into the center, the knife will come out lightly streaked with batter, which is what you want. Transfer the cake to a rack to cool.
When the cake has cooled, chill it in the refrigerator for an hour or two to make it easy to unmold. Turn the cake out, remove the parchment, and invert the cake onto a serving platter so that is is right side up. Allow the cake to come to room temperature before slicing and serving.
Keeping: The cake can be wrapped in plastic and kept at room temperature or in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days or frozen for up to a month.